Inglenook fireplace restoration

We are frequently asked to restore Inglenook fireplaces and they can be really satisfying to take on as they are such a feature to a room.

Inglenook fireplaces, like all of our work, require a careful, patient and highly skilled approach-our craftsmen are used to working this way and understand that they have a great responsibility for the protection of our architectural heritage in their hands.

One such’ inglenook ‘was as usual, in quite a sorry state with cracks, patches and other damage to the soft Norfolk Red bricks,

Original brickwork revealed

Showing original brick work

along with a less conscientious addition of modern brick infills.

This one had been dramatically reduced in size to take a 1930s tiled fireplace, so the owner had no idea that behind it was an original large fireplace dating to at least 18th C and probably older.

The original fire was an open one of course and as is often the case the fire had eaten into the soft brick at the base of the fire back- this had to be replaced( see pic).

The original hearth had long gone except for a couple of floor bricks left in situ which gave us inspiration for the hearth design.

Lime Mortar mix for the Inglenook fireplace

The original lime mortar has suffered and many bricks were in a poor condition, but fortunately the bressemer beam was in good order, clearly, as is often the case, it had been something else before being used as a fireplace beam as there are mortices cut into it! (recycling is no new thing!).

Having cut out and replaced the damaged brick, the mortar joints were raked out, the wall washed down, cleaned and ready for re-pointing.

We are very careful to get as close as we can to the original ‘recipe’ of aggregate, lime and other additives. As members of SPAB (Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings) we take great care with any work to a structure,such as mortar analysis, as this attention to detail can make all the difference to a successful restoration.

For the mortar for this project we used a medium sharp aggregate, blended with some of the original lime mortar crushed down.

The lime putty was supplied by Ty-Mawr http://www.lime.org.uk/ we used their Coarse putty.

Pointing is a skilled job, lots can go wrong unless you understand the process, the materials and the need to ‘tend’ to the mortar as it dries. Done well it is the crowning glory, but bad pointing can be an eyesore!

The hearth had just a couple of original floor bricks left in place-these were enough for us to work on, but I suspect that the very first hearth was York stone, as a slab had been let into the floor in front of the fireplace.

This evidence gave the client options- earlier York stone or slightly later floor bricks as the hearth- they opted to keep the York stone slab, but put the floor bricks over it-keeping both features for the future a great solution!

The clients opted for the herring bone pattern, though there is no evidence that this would have been the one used( see pics)

The bessemer was cleaned back and given a generous drink of linseed oil, nothing more.

Restoration of the Fire brick hearth and surrounding Brick work

Inglenook fire place restoration

Overall the fireplace is a great success- the restoration from a 1930s tiled surround to its former glory allows the house to celebrate this lovely feature.

The clients are to install a woodburning stove once the lime has had the chance to cure and so the story of this inglenook goes on to another generation or so- job done!

another angle showing resoration

Restoration of an inglenook fireplace

Inglenook fireplace showing restoration to the hearth

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Loft conversion

The loft conversion in a period style is nearly completed!

We had to bring the insulation up to standard and used a combination of a multifoil ( Triso Super 10) and Celotex @ 60mm,with plaster board over.

This got us over the problem of rafters that are thinner than the current standard, thus not giving sufficient depth to fit in insulation and retaining at least some of the roof timbers exposed.

The floor is to be carpeted and so a very good quality chipboard flooring was the most effective approach- the original floor boards were not up to the job- very wormy and thin.

We constructed a little en suite and set a reclaimed period window into the stud wall -it provides great ‘character’ and looks as though always been there- it cost no more than £10.00 at TW GAZE salvage auction !

The stairs are of ‘paddle ‘design-built to gain height quickly, they take some getting used to but do the job and save a load of space.

The final touch was to insert a couple of ‘conservation’ style Velux windows-they provide fantastic views,let in light and ventilation-just right!

Having cleaned up and treated all the roof timbers, those left exposed were given a coat or two of linseed oil.

In all the conversion is a great success, providing a very generous extra bedroom with en suite,adding value to the property and of course built in a way that is sympathetic to the period nature of the property,celebrating features wherever we can.

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Pamment floor Period restoration

Retaining the character of a period building can often mean simply working with what is there already,’tweeking’ it if needed to bring out its features.

One such recent project has been to restore the original pamment floor to a Suffolk cottage.

There had been one of the infamous 1970s ‘makeovers’ to this lovely cottage,part of which had been to lift the original floor of 9”x 9” pamments and relay them (badly) in a cement mortar-they looked awful , but though covered in cement the potential was still there in the basic material.

It was decided to carefully lift them, clean off the offending mortar and if enough survived, to re-lay them onto a lime mortar, butt jointed (dry jointed- no mortar in between the pamments). The lime mortar,-sharp sand 3:1 ratio with NHL3.5 providing a sound bedding.

Click here for more on lime mortar

We applied several methods in the cleaning and eventually achieved the desired result by using a stone polisher and diamond hand pads from D K Holdings

As with many things, the preparation is the key- we took great care to set the bond out square and in alignment with the walls which caught the eye as you enter the room-the walls were not square at all!We had to pick one wall and use that as the starting point, bearing in mind that we were also re instating a hearth at the same time and that too needed to be square to the floor tiles.

This is really essential with dry joints as there is NO margin for error/adjustment as you would get with a floor that had joints, you can get into all sorts of trouble if the setting out is poor!

The end result looks great and the pamments from the house live on again in situ.One hiccup was that about 36 of them ‘disappeared’ very mysteriously and we found ourselves short.

Very difficult to achieve just the right match with pamments and any introductions would most probably have shown up like a sore thumb!

The solution was to cut 36 or so in half and use both sides of them. This is not recommended unless you have no choice, but for this particular project the pamments were thick enough to do this,especially as they were bedded into a lime mortar,rather than the original sand.The result is that no introductions were required and of course the whole floor matches!

The hearth was laid in ‘basket weave’ bond to match the one original patch of floor bricks found at the bottom of the stairs.

This floor needs to be left now to dry out for a few weeks ,then sealed ( we use either/or linseed oil and beeswax).the final thing will be to brush fine kiln dried sand into the ‘dry joints’ to fill any remaining gaps and the floor is good for another 100 years!

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SJ Specialist Brickwork latest projects

We have two projects in construction currently the first is the period Lobby / entrance the second is a loft conversion we are working on. Both required period restoration work in order to ensure that they work with the existing property.

More on the loft conversion soon..

You can read about the the Lobby build and the period restoration techniques we have used in the design and build in the two part post

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Latest Period restoration project…Somewhere to lay your hat

First of a twp part post dealing with how to source and use Recycled architectural salvage…..

When a ‘period look’ is required there is no better solution than to re use authentic traditional materials.

We needed to create a lobby from nothing- the front door opens onto the street and the traffic noise, dust and weather could come straight into the home- nowhere to put wet coats and shoes, so a lobby was the sensible solution.

Two items, one from the clients garden and one from an auction, formed the design concept for the lobby- these have been given a new life and added to the period feeling of the home.

The clients had an old oak church pew which was in the garden,slowly rotting away. We thought it would become a lovely feature and functional item for the lobby and in fact it was the pew that lead the design and build.

The pew was taken apart, cleaned, the old rotten oak discarded and the salvaged sections rebuilt into a seat of the right proportions for the lobby-it looks great and importantly, we can see already that it will function really well as well as appearing to have been there for years!

Next was the floor of the lobby- tongue and grooved floor boards were the existing surface and we wanted something that was more ‘solid’, durable and pleasing to the eye.

First the boards were lifted and a marine ply sub floor laid- this added strength waterproofing and a great base to fix to.

We sourced the slate tiles from a TW GAZE Architectural Salvage auction- got them at a great price too. They are said to come from the floor of Kings College Chapel Cambridge and we have no reason to doubt this, they certainly have considerable age to them.

The tile were laid in a flexible waterproof tile adhesive onto the ply- setting them out was tricky- we had no spares to play with!

Once cleaned up and pointed with a NHL Lime mortar they will function perfectly and look in keeping with the oak pew.

The lobby door will be one re used from within the house, so that all the finish features will be of a period nature.

Now for the contemporary bit:

Having set out the main features we needed walls that would help to keep the heat inside the home and the noise, dust etc out.

image of the restored church pew and stone flooring

SJ Specialist Brickwork building a lobby

The ideal solution was a stud wall constructed from treated timber and insulated with Extratherm board. Foam was used to fill any gaps ,stopping drafts and the whole lot will be clad with panelling in a period style.

The lobby is not complete just yet,but well on its way- we will clean up and point the tiles ,oil the pew,clad the walls and fit the door.

A ceiling will be set into the oak beams .leaving them exposed in part and a electric metre cupboard will be built, again from recycled furniture, probably a period cupboard front bought at auction for a song!

Restored church pew and reclaimed stone flooring

Our work building a new lobby

PART TWO FOLLOWS SOON!

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Restored period Chapel images

Following on from our last post on the completed chapel you can see below the images of the finish.

Lime mortar finish and York stone flooring

Family chapel completed

The two images clearly show the final Lime mortar finish and the completed York Stone flooring.

The Finish really brings this historic feature back to life and the family are very pleased with the period restoration of their home.

View of the stone flooring and lime mortar finish

The period restoration of the chapel is complete

More from us at SJ Specialist Brickwork soon as we continue our period restoration projects.

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Period restoration of the chapel has been completed

The chapel completed

Part of our recent period brick work restoration has been the ongoing renovation of a what appears to be a chapel which we discovered hidden behind more recent masonry…………..

We have completed the final work to the ‘chapel’ and it looks just great!

So pleased that the original shape has been retained and how this feature, found bricked up, damp and forgotten for years is now an integral part of the home.

As members of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (The SPAB), we were keen to preserve it and that any works we did were completely reversible ,so that the original structure is still intact.

The membrane,supplied and fitted by Empire Property Services in conjunction with Triton has been a great success, without a membrane there would have been little we could do to stop the damp in this basement context.

Using haired NHL 3.5 lime mortar with a sharp sand aggregate as the base coat worked a treat to steady up the render and the haired chalk plaster from The Anglia Lime Company was a triumph!

The images will show that the York stone flooring looks as though it has always been there- the slabs have been given a light coat of raw linseed oil as a natural sealer.

We will often use reclaimed York stone as a flooring surface for our inglenook hearths ,rooms, especially kitchens,utility rooms and hallways- areas of heavy use. They add that special texture,scale and colour which enhances the character of a period home and they will certainly not wear out!

York stone can make an excellent patio area too of course!

The ‘chapel’ has been a pleasure to restore,a unique project and as always, during the course of the restoration we have learned something to add to our experience-one never stops learning!

On to the next part of the the project, laying a limestone floor to the room, inserting new windows and doors, a Juliet balcony and a new staircase!

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Peirod Brick Work & Matching Lime Mortars

When restoring period Brickwork & masonry it is so important to do all that can can be done to get the blend of lime and aggregate as close to the original as possible.

Period mortars were often made up to local recipes using the raw materials from the area, so they vary a lot!

SJ SPECIALIST BRICKWORK have a wide range of sources for aggregate ,we will take the time to analyse the original mortar make up by taking samples and then blending our mix to suit.

The right aggregate will produce a mortar that functions as it should and of course looks just right once cured- the colour is critical, so often you will see poorly thought through repairs that stand out simply because the colour is so different.

Consider then, texture and colour, making up a sample, letting it dry and matching this back to the original.Consider also, the other ingredients such as chalk, charcoal and flint, all of which can be found in certain mortars.

The other factor that affects the mortar would be the lime.

Lime comes in two main forms:

Slaked lime ( putty) and Hydraulic lime ( NHL,which comes in different strengths ).

We will use our experience to select the appropriate lime for the job, but will more often than not use lime putty in our work, especially on the listed buildings that we restore.

Lime putty will vary in colour and texture and we will draw upon different suppliers again to achieve as good a match as we can.

When breaking down the original mortar for analysis you will often find lumps of slaked lime putty that have not been mixed into the aggregate-they appear as grey or white lumps in the mortar joint.

It can be difficult to match this, but one excellent slaked lime mortar that can be sourced for this type of finish is from Ty Mawr their course putty is a top class product .

Another supplier of excellent lime is of course Mike Wye and associates . Both companies are very happy to offer free advice on their products.

The putty to aggregate mix will vary, but on the whole around 3: 1 ratio of aggregate to putty is a guide.

Once cured lime putty mixes are very breathable and will certainly help to allow abuilding to function as it should as well as looking good!

Hydrated lime (NHLs)

These come in different strengths and again shades from grey to cream to white.

Unlike putty, NHL (Naturally Hydraulic Lime) will set in water- it is a different product entirely,behaves a bit like a modern cement, but weaker and is a very useful material for specific jobs.

We will use them where there is a definite risk from damp/frost wind damage or where we need a strong mortar to do a specific job, but will always use a putty if we can as this comes closer in our opinion to the original.

NHLs come in roughly 2 ,3.5 and 5 strengths, but will vary within this dependant upon the brand.

Castle ,St Astier, Singleton Birch and Breckweg all have different properties, colours , set times and strengths within the numerical guide range.

NHLs can be stronger than a putty mix, but the other side of the coin is that they can also be less breathable, so it will really depend upon the renovation /restoration project and within that the specific function required as to which one to use- that is where our experience is vital!

Used with selected aggregates it is possible to achieve a match to period brickwork with either lime product, but our first preference will always be putty.

There is a lot of information about lime mortars available on line, some very good indeed, but it can be confusing too, so if in doubt ask either the suppliers or craftsmen .

We are members of the GUILD OF MASTER CRAFTSMEN which is an assurance that our work is monitored, our skills vetted and our reputation excellent.

More on lime matters later……

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REMOVING CEMENT BASED RENDER FROM PERIOD BRICKWORK

This is one of the most common requests that come in and a problem that if not dealt with can lead to some very serious issues.

All too often we see a period property with solid brick walls covered in a cement based render.The thinking used to be that the render would keep the water out and hence the inside dry, but far from it!

A cement based render unlike a lime mortar ,is not a breathable material and if you think about it, we produce a lot of moisture INSIDE the home-cooking showers,etc, even our breath creates moisture that has to go somewhere.

If the home has sealed unit double glazing, draught proofing and all the good ,sensible elements of energy efficiency, then where does that moisture go to?-you can install trickle vents etc-good ventilation is essential, but some of that moisture will attempt to escape through the walls and if there is a cement render on the inside and or out side, that’s as far as it will go-just sit there as a damp patch either as condensation on the inside or in the brickwork.

As soon as most materials become damp they loose their energy efficiency and the problems begin.

Moving to the outside, a cement render is a strong, but suprisingly brittle substance- it does not like being moved!

Period brickwork, especially with timber framing will move a good deal- enough to crack the cement render-you will often see this in a cement render of a few years old.

These cracks become the enemy as they do the reverse of the intended purpose- they will let moisture in the form of rain INTO the wall through the cracks, the softer brick will then soak this up and the moisture then finds it difficult to escape out through the render barrier efficiently- wet walls and worse than this if you have timber framing, wet timber, with the risk then if wet or ‘dry’ rot setting in.

Even 19th Century homes can have timbers in the form of wall plates and window lintels built into the brickwork- these are then a t great risk of undermining the structural integrity of the property.

Cement render was often the ‘answer’ to all of the problems, fortunately most builders are more aware of the longer term issues these days.

Our approach is always to try to restore the brickwork if we can- we can carefully remove the cement render and once revealed we can assess the cost efficiency of restoration.

In most cases the client will want the brickwork restored, after all it has done a good job for many years and with the damaged bricks replaced and the wall re pointed using an appropriate lime mortar there is no reason why it should not continue to do so.

The wall can then breathe as it should ,with no barrriers the wind and sun can evaporate the moisture efficiently, the replaced bricks and the new lime mortar keep the inside of the walls dry.

A restored period brick wall is a joy to see and brings some of the original glory and that all important character back to the home.

However, there are situations where a lime based render is the best choice- this will be covered in part two of the entry.

Click the link to visit our main site and to contact us for a more detailed analysis of removing cement based render

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York stone floor slabs

Flooring is an important part of any period restoration & renovation

Having decided upon York Stone for the floor to the ‘chapel’,we set about sourcing some reclaimed stone from TW Gaze’s Architectural salvage Auction.

We bought a pallet of stone, just enough to do the job, but they were in a bit of a state and in need of cleaning .

We take on all sorts of masonry and stone cleaning and restoration, so this is no problem to us and we knew from experience that underneath the old mortar stains there were some lovely slabs of stone .

We use a wide variety of cleaning tools and materials to restore stone and brick, in this case we made use of our wet grinder and specialist floor cleaning discs from DK Holdings ( http://www.dk-holdings.co.uk/ ), which make short work of stubborn mortar and can gently take out any chips etc to the stone. A final hand finishing and they are ready to lay in place.

The mortar mix is a coarse, sharp aggregate with an NHL 3.5 lime at 3;1ratio, leaving it quite a stiff mix as the stone slabs are really heavy.

Once cut to size and laid they are best just left for a day or so to allow the lime to begin to cure, then a little tending to the joints and cleaning the slabs brings out the best in them. We like to use only natural products and so to seal them when cured and cleaned, a final rub over with some raw linseed oil on a clean lint free rag and the job is done!

This natural oil may need topping up every few months, but nothing more.

Showing York stone floor and the alcove features

York Stone Floor cleaned and laid next to the alcoves

York Stone Floor

The York Stone slabs laid

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Follow up work on the Alcoves

The Discovery of the alcoves / chapel in our latest renovation has provided a great test for our period brick work and Lime Mortar skills…………………

In The last entry on this fascinating feature……

We talked about uncovering the feature

Alcoves showing the lime mortar work

And how the membrane is in place and the first coat of plaster applied.

A membrane was needed as the feature is underground and really damp. It is now completely dry and is rapidly becoming part of the room as the works proceed.

From the outset it has been important to ensure the the works we did were well recorded and also ‘reversible’ in that nothing we do cannot be undone ,leaving the original feature as found.

Being a lime mortar specialist company , we naturally opted for a lime mortar rather than cement based. With this in mind we have used an NHL 3.5 lime mixed 3:1 with a sharp aggregate and just a little putty to enhance the plasticity of the mix.

To increase the bonding we mixed in a generous amount of cow hair

The lime and hair sourced from Mike Wye and Associates who we find a reliable and very knowledgeable company.

This ‘scratch coat’ helps to stiffen up the membrane and as it is an NHL lime will cure more effectively onto the membrane surface.We thought that a hydrated putty based lime would take a lot longer to cure as well as perhaps having less strength in this context of the membrane.(see pic).

The final stage will be to apply a coat of Anglia Lime’s haired chalk plaster ( Angia Lime Company, Fishers farm,Sudbury, Suffolk).

This wonderful plaster is as close as we have been able to get to the original mix- a creamy consistency, with a heavy dose of hair, it dries slowly to a beautiful finish – we are looking forward to this final stage of the plastering aspect of the project!

We have decided on a york stone floor for the feature- there was no evidence of any other finish and the york stone just looks right!

Oak issues!

As the property is at least 16th Century ,there is a lot of oak in the form of posts, beams and joists.

Exposed oak beams

oak Beams

Unfortunately it has been heavily infested with Death Watch beetle and also furniture beetle to a lesser extent. This means that some of the structural timbers have, or will fail and must be replaced like for like with reclaimed oak sourced from local suppliers wherever possible,Not an easy task -sounds easy until one wants oak of a given length, breadth ,in good condition and of course matching as best we can in colour and texture!

One of the best methods is to recycle the best bits from the oak we have removed-the beetles often follow the sap wood and this can leave lengths of heart wood untouched in the same beam. This oak is of course a perfect match as it is from the house.

The issues come when a long length is needed and we have to go shopping!

We have sourced some of our oak beams from Tw Gaze salvage auctions , but this is always pot luck- great fun though!

Another good source has been Heritage Building Supplies ,who stock a wide range of architectural salvage materials.

Cutting and jointing 400 year old oak is hard work as it tends to be as hard as iron, but really satisfying to see the building coming alive again using traditional practices blended carefully with some contemporary materials such as good insulation and Heraklith Board upon which we place the haired chalk plaster.

( more on this in later entries).

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